Thankful For Vespertine

Our special guest this Thanksgiving is Katy Close, the co-founder of fashion label Vespertine, who shares her many inspirations and why now is a time for reimagining.

Fresh from Glastonbury – then, wild swims and whiskey in the Highlands – designer Katy Close and model Lili Sumner decided to create Vespertine as a vessel for their love of music, vintage, craftsmanship and community. The co-founders hail from Scotland and New Zealand, respectively, and lived in London together for a time – where they have seen the fashion industry change faster than our outfits when getting ready for a night out.

Vespertine (inspired by a Björk album) is a technical world for something that flourishes in the evening, and their fashion label is thriving in a dark time for local labels (with some folding and others relying on polyester fabrications and high prices to cope). Vespertine’s pieces also look fabulous when dressed up for dinner.

While we in New Zealand and the UK tend to skip over the trappings of an American Thanksgiving, the tradition of sharing what we are thankful for is sure to lift the spirits. As Vespertine celebrates its first festive season, Katy has reasons to be grateful.

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Why did you and Lili decide to start Vespertine?

Lili and I have always been inspired by music – it's a key part of our creative process. One of the defining moments in the brand's creation happened when we went to Glastonbury, where the energy of the festival sparked conversations about what we wanted to create. Shortly after, while Lili and I were in the Scottish Highlands, the quiet beauty of the landscape provided the perfect time to hash out some ideas on how to bring the brand to life. It was there that we began to envision a brand that would marry the spirit of music, vintage with the elegance of craftsmanship at a price which was more accessible then what was on offer at the time.

Our aesthetic draws inspiration from the spirit of Glam Rock — that timeless combination of glamour, rebellion, and elegance. It’s not about creating literal retro looks, but rather channelling the energy and mood of those eras, infusing it with modern sensibilities. We want to create pieces that feel as fresh as they do nostalgic.

How do you do things differently?

Vespertine is about capturing the mood of the evening – the time when the world shifts from day to night, when everything feels a little more introspective, a little more mysterious. The word ‘Vespertine’ itself is drawn from the sciences, describing plants and animals that flourish or bloom in the evening. It also refers to an early Björk album that features emotive strings and the sounds of twilight creatures, which perfectly encapsulates the kind of atmosphere we aim to create with our designs: delicate, evocative, and full of emotional depth.

Our silk pieces are made from 100% pure silk, and we go the extra mile to ensure that they are French-seamed, offering a level of quality and attention to detail that is rare at this price. At £300, we feel no one is offering this kind of quality and craftsmanship quite like we are.

We’re also deeply committed to sustainability. For instance, our knicker range is made from off-cut silk, ensuring that nothing goes to waste and that we minimise our environmental impact by using already made fabrics leftover from luxury fashion houses. Like our lace Amelia blouse and Florie cami. It’s an approach that allows us to create beautiful, luxurious pieces while being mindful of our footprint.

For a time, you designed Matches Fashion’s in-house label Raey – What impact did the closure of Matches have on the industry in the UK?

I left Raey before the closure of Matches, so I wasn’t directly involved in that final chapter, but I was certainly aware of the broader impact. The closure was a huge blow, particularly for smaller brands, and we saw some beloved names like Mara Hoffman and The Vampire’s Wife affected by it. The unfortunate reality is that smaller brands often depend on big retailers like Matches to meet minimums and ensure visibility. When those relationships dissolve, it can be incredibly challenging, especially for emerging brands trying to break through.

On a more positive note, I believe the closure has opened up new opportunities for smaller brands like Vespertine to flourish in a different, more independent way. The old model of relying on big retailers is starting to shift, and I think many designers and labels are now finding creative ways to thrive outside of that traditional structure. There’s a sense of freedom and possibility in this new landscape, and I see a lot of emerging brands using this as an opportunity to forge their own paths, creating stronger, more unique narratives that consumers can truly connect with. It’s an exciting time in many ways, even though the transition has been tough for some.

In terms of aesthetic I wanted to move on towards what felt new. Oversized mensy styles and loungewear had been the focus for so long it felt refreshing to do something nipped at the waist or subtly sheer and soft. Partywear has always been my favourite thing to design, having a good time and throwing parties has always been central to my existence so creating the perfect pieces to celebrate in is always a joy.

What is the state of shopping in London now?

London has always been a city that pulses with energy, and right now, I think the fashion scene here is at a fascinating crossroads. On the one hand, there's a sense of uncertainty in the air – especially after the pandemic and Brexit, and with the shifting retail landscape. Some larger institutions have struggled, but I think there’s also a very real opportunity for smaller, independent brands to thrive in new ways. But it is always a struggle to compete in a landscape where the big brands have so much power and dominance.

There's a growing shift away from traditional, mass-market fashion, and I see more designers moving toward more sustainable, slower forms of production. This is something I’m very passionate about at Vespertine, and I think there’s a wider movement in London – and globally – towards thoughtful fashion that doesn't just focus on what's trendy but instead on quality, craftsmanship, and timelessness.

Another exciting development is the rise of brands that are story-driven like ours, with strong, distinct identities that resonate deeply with consumers. It’s less about chasing fleeting trends and more about creating something meaningful. London’s fashion scene is known for being experimental, and I think this new era of fashion will see a lot more brands doing things their own way, building strong communities around their work, and not necessarily following traditional rules.

There’s also been a wonderful resurgence in creative collaboration, with designers and artists working together more often, take our World of Vespertine, for example, which is a series we launched since the inception of the brand, we have previously featured actress Lily Newmark, Seye Adelekan, and Grace Hartzel but the series is soon to launch on our website which will feature Daisy Lowe.

In a nutshell, it feels like a time of reimagining – both in terms of business models and design. It’s challenging, of course, but it’s also incredibly inspiring to be part of a generation of designers who are reshaping what fashion in London looks like.

Who is the Vespertine woman?

The Vespertine woman is someone who embodies individuality, confidence, and a deep connection to the quieter, more introspective moments of life. She’s someone who is not bound by trends but instead expresses her own story through the clothes she wears. Whether she’s stepping onto a stage, enjoying an intimate dinner, or reflecting in solitude, she exudes a timeless, effortless glamour. There's an inherent mystery to her, like the soft unfolding of the evening into night.

Our muses are integral to the brand. We are constantly inspired by creative, fearless women (and men) who make our pieces their own. Take, for example, the incredible Daisy Lowe, who recently shot our upcoming series. Daisy embodies the spirit of the brand – confident, creative, and effortless. It was such a pleasure to work with her. She's just one of the nicest and most charismatic people. She’s so chilled out and fun on set and works hard to get the right shot.

For our Out Gazing at Stars collection, we invited a group of inspiring muses to join us for an intimate dinner to celebrate the collection. This included actress Amber Anderson, entrepreneur and model Tuuli Shipster, mother and model Martine Lervik, Black Honey frontwoman Izzy Bee Phillips, and musician Nick Hinman. Each of them brought their own interpretation of Vespertine to the table, representing the diverse, multifaceted nature of the brand.

Importantly, Vespertine is not just for women. Our designs are made to be worn by anyone who feels connected to the brand’s spirit. Take our Everyone shirt – it’s a completely genderless piece, loved by both men and women alike. This inclusivity is an important part of who we are, and we aim to create pieces that transcend traditional gender boundaries.

We love to draw inspiration from our community – from musicians, artists, and friends who wear our designs and make them their own. Whether it’s performing on stage, dancing at a party, or simply going out to dinner, our garments are made to fit seamlessly into the lives of the women who wear them.

Ultimately, the Vespertine person is someone who is authentic, free-spirited, and confident in their own narrative. They wear Vespertine not just because it’s beautiful, but because it speaks to their own unique journey, whether that’s on stage, at a party, or simply existing in the quiet moments of the day.

Why is having a community around the label so important?

At Vespertine, community is at the heart of everything we do. It’s not just about the clothes, it’s about building authentic connections and sharing a collective story. Our community includes inspiring creatives from all walks of life – from musicians to artists and designers like Ellis Mhairi Cameron, a fellow Scottish designer, whom we admire. Her jewellery is just incredible. We believe that supporting and elevating one another is key, especially as independent brands.

Where is Vespertine made?

Vespertine is produced in a boutique factory in Romania. I have a very close relationship with them. They specialise in working with smaller, independent brands. This allows us to maintain a close, personal relationship with the production process and ensures that the craftsmanship and quality of each piece meet our high standards.

In addition to our work in Romania, we recently collaborated with Indian artisans to create our first-ever hand-beaded pieces like the Crystal disco dress. These pieces are a true labour of love – unique, intricate, and full of story. The beads themselves are carefully hand-applied, creating a stunning and unique look that reflects the artisanal craftsmanship we value.

What are your hopes and plans for the future of the label?

We are looking to expand into more areas in the future. We would love to do knitwear and leather products and even nightwear, as the Vespertine spirit – flourishing in the evening – isn’t just for parties, but also for the quiet elegance of home life. We want to create beautiful, cosy pieces using luxurious and sustainable cashmere that resonate with the same sense of sophistication and comfort that defines our eveningwear.

What, to you, is the fashion mood now?

We’re seeing a resurgence of boho, with softer, more feminine colour palettes seen at Chloé, paired with bold accents, like the sequinned shorts from Miu Miu. There’s also a rise in soft goth – dark, romantic, and a little rebellious. It’s about combining luxury craftsmanship with a sense of individuality and comfort, creating pieces that feel special yet wearable, whether you're at a festive celebration or enjoying a quieter evening.

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Shop All Seasons

The proverbial goose has already been cooked this year with an influx of early Black Friday sales. Focus is most important when shopping the sales (especially as Cyber weekend stretches out before us). I try to only buy items that I feel have been missing from my wardrobe for some time, and that will add a little bit of shine to what I already own.

Left –

These Miu Miu oval sunglasses are new season but are already 20% off at Farfetch, making them £323.

It’s so sad to see the news that Copenhagen-based brand Saks Potts is closing. But there’s still time to secure a forever staple, including this Adriana top from FWRD.

At Browns, this Tove Emilia strapless midi dress is a remarkable 90% off (from £1760 to £177). With a ruffled boned bodice and satin weave scrunch skirt, it is made for end-of-year parties.

Deadly Ponies is bringing back its Mr. Leopard bag for a Black Friday Capsule. They also have a great sale selection online.

Middle –

Ellis Mhairi Cameron’s 14ct Gold LII White Diamond mini stud earrings, are down from £550 to £440 at Liberty.

Vespertine’s Crystal fringe dress is a remarkable £746 if you factor in their discount (EVENING25), and if I’ve done the maths right.

Vespertine’s Romance ruffle cami is exactly what our wardrobes have been missing. Use code EVENING25 for 25% off its retail price of £160.

Meadowlark has a seriously good sale on – up to 70% off, including these Dove studs that will take flight for NZ$50.

Right –

Another brand I wish was staying around much longer is Kate Sylvester. The Forever t-shirt (now NZ$91) will fill that hole in my wardrobe (heart). They also host a great re-loved selection online.

Sleeper’s Boheme dress is down from NZ$715 to NZ$285, and use code ADD10 for more…

Ruby swaps Black Friday for Take Back Friday, where shoppers can drop off their pre-loved Ruby and Liam pieces and receive a voucher on the spot. Their Newmarket store will be selling some excellent recycled pieces, including a Monaco mini dress (as spied on Instagram).

The Chloé Betty boot has saved me on many wet London days, and this updated version – with a soft sheepskin cuff – is 40% off (That’s £330 from £550). Enter CHLOEPRIVATESALES at checkout.

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If you’ve got to the end of this newsletter you are one of my dedicated readers – it’s so nice to see you here! I’d like to ask: What are we thankful for? Let’s share the fashion and cultural moments that have lifted our spirits during what has been a challenging year... I’ll go first!